“Craft beers have a lot of personality, but there’s a lot you can do with regular commercial brews too,” says Jerry Su, chef at Eagle Rock Brewery Public House, the restaurant outlet for one of Los Angeles’ most popular craft breweries. In fact, for a lot of cooking, commercial brews are ideal, simply because the price point is better than for more limited craft offerings. “Coors is a natural for a shrimp boil. With commercial beers, you can also trust that the flavor is consistent. You know what you’re getting.”
During its renovation this summer, the space that would become Public House on Colorado Boulevard (previously Fatty’s), was an epicenter of anticipation for Northeast L.A. food and beer enthusiasts. Finally, to the delight of curious neighbors ready to pack the place, the Eagle Rock Brewery offshoot made its debut earlier this month with chef Jerry Su (Bouchon, Momofuku, Son of a Gun) at the helm. Complementing co-owners Ting Su (the chef’s sister) and Jeremy Raub’s game-changing craft beers on tap, the chef has created a menu of dishes much more sophisticated than basic brewpub fare—potted pig with quince mostarda, and seared scallops with raisin miso are just two examples.